The experience of the "shuk" (open-air market) is not unique to Israel, but to those people who come from supermarket cultures, it can be quite a shock. The supermarket is spotless, sterile and odorless. The shuk is a balagan - a mess, chaotic, crowded, noisy, boisterous and colorful. You can touch the produce, squeeze it, and in some cases, taste it. Most importantly for the consumer, it is usually reasonably priced and fresh.

Makhaneh Yehuda is not merely the name of this outdoor market, but also the neighborhood opposite it. In fact, the name originally belonged just to the neighborhood, and the marketplace was known as the "Bet Ya'akov Marketplace." In the late 1920's, the British, with their affection for order and cleanliness, condemned the marketplace and ordered the merchants out. Only after local vendors (with government approval and generous loans from Jewish bankers) built an orderly marketplace in the 1930's did the market come back to life.

Let's get oriented... if that is possible in the shuk. When you locate the green triangle, we can begin. You are facing Agrippas Street. The market runs between Jaffa Road and Agrippas Street along two main "streets" with numerous side alleys. This main "street" is covered by a canopy. This is a recent addition to the shuk. You can find the freshest produce and baked goods here as well as spices, natural foods, pre-prepared Mediterranean foods, all sorts of beverages, clothings, houseware and hardware. A parallel section of the shuk is outdoors.

Agrippas St. is also lined with food stands where you can find the famous "Me'urav Yerushalmi," a blend of meats that can be consumed in a pita with various toppings. Everyone has their favorite place for challah, their "best place" for watermelon or hummus. Some say the best falafel in Jerusalem (if not all of Israel) can be found in the shuk here. You head out to Agrippas and turn right, and walk about a half block to the "outer shuk" and make a right again. You will find two stands right next to each other on the corner. Which one of these is "the best"? Why not try them both?

Friday mornings are the craziest in the shuk, with people shopping for Shabbat. As the afternoon wears on and Shabbat approaches, you can find the best deals as the hawkers try to unload their perishables. It is watermelon season now. The sweetest seedless varieties are plentiful and inexpensive. The best way to enjoy the shuk is to simply wander its alleys, look all around you, touch, smell and taste the produce... and if the pangs of hunger motivate you to buy something... you have plenty to choose from.